“You would think I was feeding a militia,” said Liam, a long-time regular of P.J. Brady’s Bar & Restaurant, as he lugged trays of chicken fingers and boxes of pizza out the back door for a five-year-old’s birthday party. As he was leaving, his friend Steven shook his hand and told him, “Be good,” to which Liam replied, “Why start now?” As Liam walked out, two other men walked in and said to Steven who was sitting at the end of the bar, “They still let you in here?” This is the vibe at the 25-year-old Irish pub which will be celebrating its silver anniversary on Sunday, Feb. 26.
Opened in 1998 in the Throggs Neck section of the Bronx, the P and the J in P.J. Brady’s stands for Patrick and John. Patrick, who passed away before the bar opened, was John’s father and the inspiration for the bar.
“My father worked in the bar business his whole life, since he was 15,” said Brady.
Patrick Brady began his bar career in Ireland and didn’t miss a step when he emigrated to New York City in 1959 at 27 years old, working at high-profile Irish bars in Manhattan like the Blarney Stone, McCann’s and Rosie O’Grady’s.
“I used to lock up with him when I was at the building downtown working as a porter,” said John Brady of watching his father work and learning the ins and outs of the trade. “This is a cut-throat business.”
Upon opening, P.J. Brady’s replaced a vacant storefront on Phillip Avenue which attracted teenage loiterers. Still going strong 25 years later, the bar has become a staple of the community with a loyal following, like regular Tony Delano. He moved out of the neighborhood to New Rochelle 10 years ago but still comes back to Throggs Neck to drink exclusively at the local watering hole.
The bar has an expansive menu and features fresh homemade soups and Irish classics, like Shephard’s Pie, made by co-owner and wife, Majella Brady.
“And the wings and pizza here are always on the money,” said Delano.
In 2002, the New York Times wrote an article on P.J. Brady’s famous pizza maker, Louis Palladino, which hangs in a frame near the kitchen. Palladino, now 92, is credited with starting pizza delivery service in Throggs Neck, according to John Brady — and the nonagenarian still stops by every now and then.
P.J. Brady’s has all the makings of a classic, New York Irish bar. There is a long wooden bar that seats about a dozen people, Tiffany-style lamps hanging from the ceiling, a framed and autographed photo of Frankie Coffeecake and the gang from the movie, “A Bronx Tale,” and a poster of the Last Supper. But instead of Jesus and the apostles, it’s Marilyn Monroe and other stars of the sliver screen like Elvis Presley, Clark Gable, Charlie Chaplin and James Dean. The feel of the place is old-school and familiar.
Despite taking a hit during COVID-19, P.J. Brady’s has been fortunate enough to stay afloat. While other restaurants were scrambling to figure out outdoor dining and food delivery, Brady’s already had theirs well established.
“We were one of the first bar/restaurants in the neighborhood to deliver our food,” said Brady.
As for inflation, Brady said that when they opened back in ’98, a case of French fries cost $8.99 a box and now, they run about $35 — about double what it should cost when factoring in for inflation.
But all in all, Brady is thankful that the business has never had any significant problems and knocks on wood.
The anniversary celebration will begin at 4 p.m. Sunday and will feature the one-piece band, Murphy’s Lawyer, and offer complimentary food.
“We try to make you comfortable; we try to give you what you want,” said Brady, and judging by the customers, those words seem to ring true.
A sign at the bar reads, “céad míle fáilte,” which is Gaelic for, 100,000 welcomes.
Reach ET Rodriguez at etrodriguez@gmail.com. For more coverage, follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram @bronxtimes
